Alaska Adventure: Bison, Meteors and the Road Toward the Northwest Territories

August 10 – Leaving the Yukon and Meeting the Bison

We left Watson Lake around 11:00 and headed south toward Liard Hot Springs, officially leaving the Yukon behind and closing another chapter of our northern adventure.

It wasn’t long before we crossed back into British Columbia. Soon after, the roadside signs began warning us about bison on the highway.

About an hour into the drive, near the Watson Lake bridge washout detour, there he was—a huge male bison standing beside the road, peacefully eating.

Our first bison sighting of the day!

We spotted two more before arriving at Liard Hot Springs Lodge, located just across the road from Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park.

After getting set up, we walked over to the hot springs.

A 750-metre boardwalk took us through the warm swamp toward the pools. There were plenty of moose tracks along the way, but unfortunately, no moose.

The hot springs themselves were beautifully done. There were pit toilets, change rooms and a deck area, but thankfully, the park hadn’t overdeveloped the place.

We started in the lower creek area, where the water ranged from warm to cool. It felt wonderfully rustic, especially as you could wander farther back into the creek and through the overgrown natural surroundings.

Then we headed up to the upper pool.

It was hot! Coming over the waterfalls from the springs at 52 degrees Celsius!!!

We stayed until about 4:00 before heading back to the motorhome for some reading.

That’s when the bison adventure really began.

While we were relaxing, a group of rather loud neighbours from Fort Nelson arrived with their pickups and four-wheelers, so June decided to escape for a walk down the road.

And that’s when she found them.

A whole herd of bison.

She ran the two kilometres back to get me, and we quickly grabbed the bikes and rode down to the bridge to watch.

For about 45 minutes, we watched the herd as they gradually made their way toward the road.

Then they started coming up.

And then, one by one, they crossed the bridge!

We wisely cycled away as the massive animals crossed over and headed back toward the grass and trees.

It was an incredibly cool experience.

We headed home, cleaned up and settled in for what we expected to be a quiet evening.

Then, suddenly, we looked out and saw the herd of bison in the campground!

Very cool.

August 11 – South Through the Northern Rockies

We were back on the road at 10:00, continuing south along the Alaska Highway toward the Rocky Mountains.

The drive through the Northern Rockies was beautiful and provided some great scenery.

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We also had plenty of wildlife to keep us entertained.

We saw caribou mothers and their babies, a porcupine and more moose.

There was, of course, more construction along the way—it wouldn’t be a northern highway without it—but thankfully, it wasn’t too bad.

After the roads we’d experienced in Alaska and the Yukon, our standards for what qualified as “not too bad” had probably changed considerably!

August 12 – Cycling, Shopping and a Late Night Under the Stars in Fort Nelson

It was sunny and hot today, with temperatures reaching the high 20s.

We headed out on the bikes and rode past the airport until the road turned to gravel at about the 15-kilometre mark.

From there, we headed back toward the highway and completed a loop around town.

Of course, a bike ride isn’t always just about exercise.

We made stops at Ace, Home Hardware, Red Apple and Fields while shopping for a cooler.

Eventually, we found the same cooler at Fields—for $40 less than the price at Home Hardware.

Deal!

By the time we got home, we’d ridden about 40 kilometres.

Later, we walked back uptown to pick up the cooler, found some ginger beer at Save-On and headed home for happy hour.

We went to bed early.

Very early, as it turned out.

At midnight, we got back up for the Perseid Meteor Shower.

We stayed outside until almost 4:00 a.m.

It was worth it.

We saw around 25 meteors streaking across the sky. The aurora also made an appearance, although this time it was more of an all-over haze than the spectacular dancing display we’d seen earlier in the Yukon.

Still, watching meteors and a hint of the Northern Lights in the middle of the night was a pretty good excuse for missing some sleep.

August 13 – A Hot Day and a Late Start

After not getting to bed until 4:00 in the morning, we slept until almost 10.

No surprise there!

It was another hot day and our warmest of the year so far, reaching around 30 degrees with the humidex.

We walked to the Farmers Market and picked up some groceries before heading home.

Later, we cycled out toward the airport and over to Save-On, covering a nice 24 kilometres despite the heat.

The rest of the day was spent doing laundry, relaxing and reading.

After the long night watching meteors, a quieter afternoon was probably exactly what we needed.

August 14 – Back to Mile 0

After a thunderstorm during the evening and another warm night, we were back on the road at 10:00.

After filling up with gas, we headed south on the Alaska Highway for the last time.

The drive to Dawson Creek took about five hours.

There was something fitting about arriving at Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway after travelling thousands of kilometres on and around it over the past two months.

We checked into Mile 0 Campground, located about three kilometres north of the famous Mile 0 marker.

Once we were set up, we walked into town to see the Alaska Highway gateway marker and the official Mile 0 milepost.

Then it was back home.

Our little sightseeing trip turned into a six-kilometre walk.

After all the roads, frost heaves, construction zones, gravel and washboard we’d travelled on the Alaska Highway, it was satisfying to finally stand at the spot where it all starts even though for us it was the end. Running from Mile 0 in Dawson Creek to Delta Junction 2,232 kilometres north west of here.

August 15 – Wind, Cycling and Saying Goodbye—for Now

Today I washed the bottom of the motorhome and cleaned the front windows.

June also had an assessment appointment via telehealth.

Later, we headed out on the bikes and cycled a loop around town, doing a little shopping along the way.

It was only 17 kilometres, but the strong wind made it a much tougher ride than the distance suggested.

That evening, we had happy hour with John, Suzzanne and Rio.

It was our last day together for the next three weeks.

Suzanne was flying home on Wednesday, while John was heading to Edmonton.

After spending so much of the trip travelling, sightseeing, cycling and sharing happy hours together, it was strange to think we would soon be heading in different directions.

We made the most of our final evening together.

August 16 – June Takes the Wheel

We pulled out of Mile 0 at 10:00 this morning.

After travelling south through the Yukon and British Columbia and reaching Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway, we were now turning north once again for one more major adventure.

June drove all day!

She took us through the entire six-hour drive, with only a stop for gas about an hour and a half into the trip.

By 4:17 that afternoon, we pulled into Aspen Ridge, just south of High Level, Alberta.

It was a nice campground, and after a full day on the road, we were happy to simply get settled and relax.

June had definitely earned the evening off from driving.

August 17 – North to the Northwest Territories

We pulled out of Aspen Ridge at 10:00 this morning.

After stopping in High Level for groceries, liquor and gas, we pointed the motorhome north once again.

Our destination?

The Northwest Territories!

The road ahead was calling.